I've been building a Model Maker steam engine from solid billet (no castings). I have deviated from the blueprints by adding reversing gear to the engine. I have set up temporary adjustable valve rods to try to determine the best length. While I have equal travel of the valve...I'm finding that I'm not getting full steam port exposure with the valve moving top to bottom. I'm guessing there's really two ways to make adjustments to this..one: mill off the top and bottom of the actual valve block or two: make new eccentrics with a slightly larger throw. I'm a bit concerned with milling the valve...my thought is if I mill too much..I may not get adequate coverage of the ports during exhaust. It seems remaking eccentrics with about .060 throw might give me the port open g I'm looking for. Any thoughts or recommendations of options or concerns would be appreciated.
May 13, 2019
I saw a photo of a green twin oscillating steam engine on the Preston Services website a few years ago, and a Canadian buddy of mine challenged me to make one. Long story short, I built a foundry, used a 3D modeling program to model the engine using 3 photos, made the patterns, and cast the parts for a 60% scale engine. I recently got the engine running, and it can be viewed here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UxIZ4iuhLyM The plan at this point is to finish the painting work on the engine, and publish it in Live Steam and Outdoor Railroading magazine. It was a long journey to learn the foundry work, but I was able to cast some of the parts in gray iron, with the remainder being cast in 356 aluminum.